Life in the Okavango delta, the ever changing landscape that is forever changing me

The seasons are changing no matter which hemisphere you call home. Summer is winding down in the north and fall is around the corner, shutting down cottages and bringing beautiful vibrant colors and fresh starts. Fall is known at home as the season of change.

Here in the Okvango the summer rains ended in april leaving behind a vibrant green oasis. With the exception of the “freak june rains”, winter then set in and the heat of the day subsided and the nights got cooler, so cold that we were
bundled up in down jackets and beanies, some nights dipping below 0°C (he best of both (fashion) worlds. And now we are into August, on the cusp of, and maybe the height of the dry season, when scorching sunlight paired with no rain parches the vegetation, browns the earth (and my skin) and in some spots creates a thick salt crust.















Seasonal winds stir dust storms creating a hazy horizon that sometimes feels a bit overcast. The sandy Kalahari desert simply swallows the Okavango river, our perception of this would lead us to believe and visualize a stark dry baron land, but the Kalahari basin possesses an oasis that flourishes in the midst of the dry season and is host to a wide variety of wildlife, including 1,300 plant species, 444 bird species, 71 species of fish, 64 reptilian species, 33 amphibian species and 122 species of mammal. The clear waters reflect the sky. The birds, grasshoppers, beetles and numerous insects are humming away the day as nature's music, it gives way to the life of frogs to lions, even flowers bloom in this arid land and in all aspects this is a land that celebrates life. The waters lethargically flow, finding new paths and enhancing old ones, totally changing the delta's landscape. The nature of the annual floods is gentle (though the way they talk about the annual “flood” in town one would think and imagine houses and cows floating down the streets with people on rooftops, it is such an event that people throw parties in it’s celebration and go to watch said “flood” on a daily basis. I assure you it is a gentle, dribble and leaves no one homeless) flood plains and islands disappear under water and then reappear in this ever-changing landscape at the end of each season.

When I first arrived, Moremi was lush and green. Camp was hidden behind rows of mopane trees providing a barrier between us and the rest of the reserve, it was difficult to see camp from my tent over the tall grass. While the sun set behind the kitchen every night it too was hiding behind tall reeds in the permanent swamp, now the sunset paints the water a golden red for us to sit and watch, the reeds shadowed and the last calls of the birds echo in the wind as the elephants and hippopotamus saunter on by.


Now as if all barriers have been brought down, the landscape is transparent and a new sense of it’s vastness overwhelms me. It’s dry. My hair, my skin, my lips and my throat crave moisture. It’s getting hot. My internal clock is confused no doubt. I went from -30 °C to + 30 °C in 30 hours. During the "wrong" season. I crave summer at home, it's what we live for. Driving up north and stoping to jump into a lake or river along the way just to cool off. Skinny dipping in the lake at night and feeling the cool water on my hot sun burnt skin one inch at a time from my head to my toes and sailing through the blackness eyes wide open until I pop my head up gasping for air from the stars above. ..... sorry had a moment there.....Though I am used to heat at home where now it is +30°C with the humidex, here it is the same temperature (though rising daily) and dry. There is a predictability in the forecast here that one has to appreciate, even if it gives me L.L.H.S (limp lettuce hair syndrome) it's a good thing I only see a mirror once a week and vanity has all but become a distant cousin of mine.

Since I've arrived here I too have changed immensely, and symbolically in sync as it seems with the seasons and the land. Stripping away layers as I go. I had no doubt in my mind that this experience would change me forever what I didn't realize just how that change would impact me to the depths of my soul that it has. Even here as I write I've gone from recording "life in the Okavango Delta" to "at the baobab tree" and my personal experience with myself as it's been fused with nature and this land. I've come out of myself, and back in. I've been blessed with an opportunity to think and live without outside influence (media) and simply on the necessities. Less is more. I've danced with nature in a way only a lucky few ever get the opportunity. I know how fortunate I am. I've grown to learn that it is possible to be a whole person and work on all areas of my life as much as possible day to day, season to season. Work, career, personal, spiritual, emotional needs and relationship development. Change is the essence of the delta, as it's been the essence in me and my experience here

Sometimes we travel through the processes of personal growth just by staying where we are. Changes in season impact on our psyche and so we must change. The shortening of the days and the leaves falling stir our spirits and challenge us to get moving. Some people love the summer, some the winter. I love the changing of the seasons. The seasons will change no matter what happens in the news, in our small lives or on the planet as we live on. Seasons put things into perspective, they wait for nothing and are fearless to change. As I get on in my years the seasons go by faster and faster and remind me that time can get by you if your not carful. I've learnt to pursue every opportunity that presents itself, and try and live as much in the moment as possible. I don’t pretend it’s always easy. I lose track of days and weeks that meld into months and before I know it, another season has come and gone. It's hard not to think only in terms of work or career or retirement savings when it's in our faces constantly. But it's not here, I never hear of it, here I can do both and meld it with my own spiritual, relationship and emotional development. I must be the source of my change if it is to last and evolve with the land around me. To flow with the water and change with the land around me by paying attention to the amazing interconnectedness, mindfulness and being present. Because it is in the present moment, that we are truly alive. When we awaken to the silence of our minds, we are able to hear the wisdom of our souls. Our presence allows us to fully participate in our lives and enjoy all the peace, joy and wonderment that life has to offer.

Change is the law of life. And those who only look to the past or present are certain to miss the future. John F. Kennedy

There's a hippo in my bathtub...I mean Kitchen! WHAT?

So there we were sitting in the office, It's about 8pm. I was working away, Brad was chatting to Graham when I hear this grass being munched outside. I grab the torch and step outside. There; right along side the electric fence was a BIG HIPPO. A huge beautiful hippo. Completely chilled munching on the grass. I can't imagine ever coming closer to a hippo. We all sat in awe watching for a bit, then returned to our tasks at hand. What? We live deep in the african bush. Game tend to live here with is, more so we live here with them.

So back in the office there is a conversation that goes something like this; starting with me saying to Graham:

"That hippo was pretty close to the fence hey, you don't suppose she would come through it?"

Graham: "Ya it's fine, it's highly unlikely that she will come near the fence, she will steer clear"

Penny: "really? she was very close, in fact rubbing against it"

Graham: "It's fine, relax"

And so it was. Not 5 min later I hear this same rustling, I get up with torch in hand again to look. And low and behold there she was; in our kitchen.

Penny: "Graham, there is a hippo in the kitchen!

To which Graham promptly steps out of the office.

Graham: "Where?" pointing his torch out away from camp into the open field

Penny: "In the kitchen Graham"

Graham, again pointing his torch away from camp

Graham "what? where"

To which I pointed my torch into the kitchen.

Penny: "IN THE KITCHEN!"

Graham: "Oh hey would you look at that"

So yes this is a gloat, as a Canadian living in the African bush there is rarely the opportunity to be right, and as Graham would say I somewhat exaggerate the proximity of the animals to me/us/the vehicle/the tent.

There was indeed a hippo in camp last night. A big female hippo. She had decided to walk through the fence and make her way in looking for grass. I will admit she was sweet. She seemed completely and utterly unaware that we were all standing there shining lights at her. She just went about her business eating grass unbothered by our presence. Quickly realizing that there really wasn't much to chomp on in camp she made her way out the other end and very gently walked over the fence.

Because it was evening we were unable to take pics.

As you've read in past posts, elephants often make their way through camp and it is always a humbling experience as we go about our business living in their home. Last night was another incredible moment and reminder of just how small we are here in Moremi. Living amongst the animals in harmony (without becoming one).

Usually it's the adaption of animals to humans. Here it is the adaption of humans to the animals (at least for me) And frankly I would rather live among the wild animals then some of the weird humans I've come across in the city. Personally speaking, I feel any game in the african bush that could be watching me or about to mess with my stuff is not so much a worry as the human one that one is all too likely to encounter in the city. (reference the moment I left the bush to the city I was robbed) It's not that there aren't plenty of healthy and wonderful people in the cities -- and these few may determine our survival as a species. However, a neglected aspect of survival is pristine nature and living the outdoors life. With hippos, elephants, lions.........

Whilst re-telling this story today I was reminded of a childhood song by a famous Canadian artist Anne Murrey, it's been in my head all day and it goes something like this:

"Hey Momma there's a dragon in the driveway, Daddy there's a lion on the lawn... and you better come quick because there's a hippo in the bathtub, and he's going down the drain oh no he's gone!"

I am here because....

I realize it’s been some time since I have updated here, and I apologize, we’ve been very busy in the Okavango Delta! Imagine that. We had to take an unexpected trip into Maun for yet again more vehicle repairs, we needed a new rear diff. I now have a wonderful, unintended through knowledge of how a diff operates and it’s purpose in the vehicle running smoothly. I’ve posted a rather facetious and funny (if I do say so myself) post to this effect on the Earth-touch site, click here to read it and all about Maun scrap yards I am sure you will find it very enlightening.

When in Maun we stay in a little cottage with flushing toilets (which I must point out the flush handle is on the opposite side here and throws me every time as does getting into the vehicle, I still walk to the wrong side) and full running (indoor) showers. It is a welcome relief but the novelty wares off quickly and I miss my sunset showers. Maun is lacking in things to do and one bores quickly. My entertainment is watching the donkeys, (Jessica would love it) goats, and people share the roads, sidewalks and I imagine some homes.














Friday rolls in and we were finally back in camp much to my relief. Anxious to get back into the African wild I forgot one minor detail. That now wonderfully beautiful well put together diff of which I just love (not) had to be installed back into the vehicle. Hence another day not out in the African wild but you guessed it, doing vehicle maintenance. I was hoping it wasn’t over yet I was just getting into it. We are on a roll why stop now?

Graham spent Saturday putting the diff in, greasing prop shafts of re-greasing the bearings and other general and always necessary maintenance. I helped by passing him the scalpels and absorbing yet more information that I hadn’t asked for or nor wanted. I got my hands mildly greasy and dirty. What joy.

All this shop talk over the last week has brought the beautiful impact the bush has had on me to the forefront. Eventually getting into the car and making our way to our wild home was immensely gratifying.

The road out of town quickly turns to dirt, and we cross through the buffalo fence. So named for it’s original purpose to prevent buffalo from ranging southward out of the delta during the wet season and thus coming into contact with cattle herds and contrary to keep the cattle out of the delta grasslands, and of course to fend off disease such as foot and mouth and sleeping disease.

There is a stark contrast between the landscape on either side of the fence. On the southern side the ground is bare, light grey dust and sand. On the north side there is grass, trees, and dense scrub which was a lush green when I arrived and as we head into winter and the dry season it has changed to a light brown or yellow with only a few brush strokes of color left in some flowers sporadically scattered throughout providing a stunning contrast when looking out into the landscape. Crossing through this fence calms me to depths of my soul. I settle back in my seat, feet on the dash and take a deep breath in filling my senses with the sweet smells, sights and sounds of the Delta. The first impala we see makes me smile, Impala run ramped and there are many of them, so I think we tend to take them for granted but when I see that first Impala beyond the buffalo fence I am reminded of their importance and beauty and they alert me that I’ve entered the Delta and am on my way home. Going the opposite way, it’s the random donkeys and goats in the road that alert me that I’ve arrived in Maun, not as lovely.

Shortly there after we see elephant, to which we often refer to as ‘ele’, wart hogs, and hippos. Our game drive home pleases me greatly.

Three and a half hours later we arrive in camp, and I feel thankful for all that it is. The sweet sounds of the Rio and Keita’s tiny little voices ring out, and the familiar faces and smiles of Andy, Brad, Jason, Franette and Prika and I am home. Albeit exhausted and covered in dust from the drive, I let out a sigh in comfort. I can’t wait to shower outside by the fading light of the sunset.

It is when I go to bed and rise this morning that all that I missed collides. I lie in bed and listen to the laugh of the hippos, the universal song of the night insects and crickets, and I try to settle into my book, but natures lullaby rocks me to sleep in no time.

I wake shortly after to the sound of something rumbling around in the bush, not heavily, just some grass brushing around so I assume a hyena or something of that size. I sit up to listen and look outside, and I see the unmistakeable silhouette of an elephants ears waving in an out looking in the direction of the tent. The silhouette is so dark that it could easily be mistaken for wonderful dream. The resounding outline of his immense frame makes it’s way across the path to my tent not three or four feet away from my front door. It’s pitch dark out its late at night and this enormous animal makes no sound as it walks. I always expect the earth to drum out a thunderous rumble under their feet, but mother earth doesn’t even seem to register the weight. They are gentle giants and walk as if not to disturb any creature in it’s vicinity from it’s slumber. They are the largest and oldest living creature on earth. Perhaps this is why they are so gentle with her, mother earth, with their uncanny skills preserving her, they appreciate her for her worldly wonder and respect her beauty, we can learn a lot from this wise old animal. They weigh over two tons, and can step on a twig and not break it. Not a single spec of dust stirs from the desert floor as they walk. If I closed my eyes I would not even have known of his presence. In many cultures the elephant is a symbol of power, wisdom, energy and strength, this resonates within me at this moment and brings out such raw emotions as the site of an Elephant always seems to do.

I woke at dawn as I do all mornings in Moremi to the morning sunshine and the ballad of all the Delta birds singing in course; the Francolins, Woodland Kingfishers, Starlings, Babblers (these always make me laugh), Ground Hornbills, Red and Yellow billed Hornbills an orchestra that seems to be conducted by the gentle hoot of the Giant Eagle Owl.

While a week in Maun touring scrapyards wasn’t exactly enlightening for me at the time, leaving the bush and the return home was a reminder as to why I am here, to cling to nature, participate in this environment, blend in with the magnificent animals, gain friendships and knowledge, a better understanding of myself and mankind,and of course look for the lions, a reminder to me that we are merely humans, living in the wild where ever we are, and how privileged I am to be able to bring the the magnificence and wonderment of the Delta and all that it is to you; my family and friends.

And now I must do a pitch, (you can take the girl out of the corporate but you can’t take the corporate out of the girl) please go to the Earth-Touch site now and often to follow what we are doing here in Moremi, follow the lions and everything else we meet along the way. And please do share this with all of your friends, things (and people) are only successful because of the help from others (we need numbers!) so help make us famous! ;-) Cartel I know you are busy with exams and I do wish you lot's of luck, but get those western academics logged on will ya! Even if through facebook! Not to mention this early mid life career crisis and change is expensive so I need to become famous so I can earn more and get my much anticipated promotion from assistant to Camera girl/writer extraordinaire (once mum and Graham get on the grammar and spelling issues, hey I deliver the content and entertainment, once famous thanks to you; I will hire an editor. Marissa stand by). Thanks all!