Have a Cool Weekend
9 years ago
19°S 13' 48" 23°E 22' 23.6"
The seasons are changing no matter which hemisphere you call home. Summer is winding down in the north and fall is around the corner, shutting down cottages and bringing beautiful vibrant colors and fresh starts. Fall is known at home as the season of change.
bundled up in down jackets and beanies, some nights dipping below 0°C (
When I first arrived, Moremi was lush and green. Camp was hidden behind rows of mopane trees providing a barrier between us and the rest of the reserve, it was difficult to see camp from my tent over the tall grass. While the sun set behind the kitchen every night it too was hiding behind tall reeds in the permanent swamp, now the sunset paints the water a golden red for us to sit and watch, the reeds shadowed and the last calls of the birds echo in the wind as the elephants and hippopotamus saunter on by.
There is a predictability in the forecast here that one has to appreciate, even if it gives me L.L.H.S (limp lettuce hair syndrome) it's a good thing I only see a mirror once a week and vanity has all but become a distant cousin of mine.
Todays is my fathers birthday. It’s his one from. That’s what he and I called them, birthdays, “one froms”. For example, when I turned 33, I was one from 34, which was one from 35! which meant I was 5 from 40! GASP! We carried on like this no matter the birthday. Today my father would have been one from 60, 5 from 65, 10 from 70! GASP. I would have teased him, asked me if he could wait to get the free buss pass, or seniors discounts. He would have emailed me in advance his tagged gift list from lee valley consisting of all sorts of woodworking tools to add and aid in the building and fine craftsmanship of unfinished boxes, cabinets, tables, dog dish holders, or whatever the project was at the time. But it meant he could be in his workshop with a new tool and that would make him happier then a kid in a candy store. I would have called him from here, I would have sent him a video.
Ironically or more symbolically todays birthday makes my father a leo, the sign of the lion and I am here chasing lions in the african wilderness.
I looked up leo and the night sky to see when I could see this constellation and I found something interesting. Every year in and around Nov 18th (the day my father died) give or take a day or two there is what is called a Leonid meteor shower.
You've heard me speak often of "tracking" the lions. I've realized that I have not touched on just what this means. In the process I've learnt to notice everything and miss nothing. Again adding to my heightened senses since I've arrived. The art of tracking has been said to be the origin of science and represents a crucial step in human evolution (the art of tracking, as practised by contemporary trackers of the Kalahari, is a science that requires fundamentally the same intellectual abilities as modern physics and mathematics [Liebenberg, 1990] it may even be argued that physicists think like trackers).
I can't begin to provide a mere (if that) glimpse into the complexity involved in the process by which indigenous peoples track and hunt animals but I can at least share with you what I've learnt and the intellectual exercise of tracking which depends on scientific, spatial, and symbolic thinking. Tracking involves much more then just looking for prints, "spoor" may include tracks, scat, feathers, kills, scratching posts, trails, drag marks, sounds, scents, marking posts, the behavior of other animals, habitat cues, and any other clues about the identity and whereabouts, we read the visual clues left behind, we look at the surrounding area of the tracks, we listen for signs, like chirping squirrels, or birds warning calling. We look for flattened grass, and which direction it folds down, even animal waster like buffalo poo and the direction it fell as they move off. We develop hypotheses about what the animals were doing when they left these clues. We make predictions about what the animals are likely to do next which direction the lions will head based on where we left them the night before.
Lion tracks can be easily mistaken for hyena tracks or leopard and so we often have to get out to look closely to be sure. The lion track has three lobes at the heel while the hyena has only two.


Until last week when I got the heart wrenching news of my girlfriends fathers extremely tragic and sudden death, wringing tears out of my eyes that have not even close to dried up, did I realize a few other things. I barley remember the day I got that phone call or the hours, days, weeks and months after. It’s a blur, coupled with moving to the middle of the African bush I just trudged forward. And now with this sad news the realization on the suddenness of death, of her loss, of my loss. It was sudden, it was unexpected, it was unplanned. While I don’t know what it’s like to endure a long illness in a loved one I can’t imagine it, no matter what you can’t prepare for such a thing, you can’t prepare for death. What I know is the suddenness. I read in one of the newspapers that my friends fathers one regret was not spending enough time with his children and in recent years made the effort to do so. Donna, and others told me that my father regretted not spending more time with us when we were kids, and it was evident he was trying to do so in the recent years. In fact my father told me this recently while we laughed at some old photos we had been given. I looked at him and shrugged and said what’s done is done what matters is we are here together, right now.

Pound for pound this is Africa's most fearless animal despite it's size. (click here to watch a video of a badger eating a snake!) Even listed as the most fearless animal in the world. Even names so in the Guinness book of world records. You don't say! Evidently even lions fear these little sweethearts. uh huh. Graham then told me a story that he knew a guy who had a badger attach and attack the wheel of his land rover. And since these fearless warriors like honey, they've been known to terrorize the kitchens of camps with much more devastating consequences then that of a hyena or baboons. They will eat poisonous snakes, consumed in less then 15 minutes and raid bee nests, to the distaste of bee keepers.
But they are so cute!
In a 2002 National Geographic documentary titled "Snake killers: Honey badgers of the Kalahari", a badger was documented stealing a meal out of a puff adder's mouth and casually eating the meal in front of the hissing snake. After the meal, The badger began to hunt the puff adder, the species being one of the badger's preferred venomous snakes. He managed to kill the snake and began eating it, but then collapsed on the dead snake as he had been bitten during the struggle. After about two hours he surprisingly awoke. Once his paralysis had subsided, the badger continued with his meal and then resumed his journey.



Lately there have been herds and herds of beautiful elephants moving through northern botswana, once on the verge of extinction this area now lays claim to 150 000, the largest in Africa.The reason for this mass movement at the moment is mostly seasonal. During the rainy season the elephants stay away from the delta area in the drylands. With the rain on the land there is water to drink and fresh mopane leaves to digest. As these areas dry up, between May- Nov they start to move out into the delta for drinking and bathing giving us an unsurpassed chance to see the elephants in a variety of ways, in the water, on land and up close, right in camp, and almost in our kitchen at one point. Do look up the documentary Elephants without boarders to learn more about the amazing historical migration patterns of Elephants.
longest gestation period of any land mammal at 22 months. The breeding herds or female herds spend their entire lives in tightly knit family groups led by a matriarch. They care and protect their young, act together for mutual protection from predators, and maintain loving relationships across the generations. The older, experienced females act as the Grandmothers of the Herd, using their experience and wisdom to assist the mothers and calves with the problems of life. Adult males on the other hand live mostly solitary lives.
The elephant crosses many world religions, in buddhist cultures the elephant is patience and wisdom, as the embodiment of perfect wisdom and royal dignity the Buddha himself is often refereed to as the elephant. The chinese a symbol of energy strength and power. Even in the U.S it is the symbol of the republican party. And the sacred hinduism Ganesha- the elephant headed god has been widely revered as a remover of obstacles, hence as a bringer of success.
Having the privilege to be so close to these immensely, empowering, humbling and god like creatures, to at one point have elephants enclosing in on all corners of camp for what felt like a large protective hug is something I could and will never take for granted. These elephants are teaching me about spirituality, about family, about a sense connection that despite all the available resources to us to connect we seem to grow further away from one another. They are magnificent not just in their size but in the power they hold over me as I sit, in their home, on their land and they teach me all they know.

You might wonder what we do for fun around here, there is no local waterhole so to speak, no dancin' to be had on bars (good thing I've outgrown that, though from what I keep hearing Graham hasn't and thus does so naked..... you can ask him about it) no wine with the girls to chat about what girls chat about.
We have a few places for such outings, one as you know is Dead Tree Island a favorite magical spot for full moons and sunsets. There is also the Baobab tree. Which might be my favorite. Equally as magical in a story book sort of way. African's 
The Baobab tree has inspired me, so much so to change the name of my blog to "At the Baobab Tree".... seems fitting.
Here are some pics of us at the tree, Grahams friend Mike came up to spend some time here with us and I insisted on pictures being taken with the timer, you know group shots, killing Graham and leaving Mike the urge to entice Graham to be silly in one said pic. Being as quick witted as I am, I picked up on the ploy of their shenanigans and joined in on que... the result the following pic laughing, and then in all seriousness.... 

It has occurred to me that I’ve posted a lot of pictures of the big five and forgotten about the other less cooed over beautiful animals here in the delta. The often misunderstood hyena being one of them.
Once I got to see one several times I started to see the beauty in them as there is in all animals. Still scavenger like, they are the only carnivore the eats virtually everything and can swallow a sliver of bone up to 9cm long and digest it with in hours, giving me something to be afraid of, from the comfort of the vehicle he is a lovely spotted beautiful animal. 

dark at the time as they are mainly nocturnal, I’ve stolen this from google images. Stunning little creatures with the most amazing eyes and pointing ears.
leopard. It is the tallest of Africa's small cats with long legs.